Вопрос заключается в сл. - на вражеских сайтах пишут, что стоковый ECU Р30 видит максимальное напряжение лямбды от 0 до 3,85 вольт, широкополосная лямбда выдает (типа LC-1) от 0 до 5 вольт. Кто что знает, какие показания по вольтажу и AFR вбивать в меню установок CROME?
Вот что пишут
The Problem
The stock Honda O2 sensor input will only read to a maximum of around 3.8v, this does not present any problem when the stock narrowband O2 sensor is used as hovers about the 1v area in operation. While you could just configure your WB controller to output from 0-3.8v from 10:1 to 20:1 AFR, it would be a lot more accurate if you could read to 5 volts. Another problem is that many WB O2 controllers (like the AEM, TechEdge etc) do not allow you to alter the wideband signal output - this means any AFR above the 3.8v threshold will not be read! Various people in the past have used op-amps to rescale the 0-5v output of these wideband controllers to meet the restraints of the ECU, and while it gets the job done it would be nice to have everything done properly.
А вот пишут про ее работу с CROME
CROME Pro setup:
First off, you have to have Pro to datalog... I hope you know that already.
Click File, then Settings, then click the Tuner Logging tab. Select Innovate under Lambda Conversion Table.
The ECU (without modification) can only read up to 3.8volts on the O2 input. I use 0.10 volts for 7.35 AF (0.500
Lambda), and 3.50 volts for 22.05 AF (1.500 Lambda). You will want to connect your Serial cable to the LC-1 and
program the Analog 1 to the same settings.
In the ROM, check the box “Disable oxygen sensor (open loop)”
Tip: In the PGMFI.org wiki, there is instructions on how to modify the ECU and make the O2 input read up to 5 volts!
Я так понял, что можно при програмировании работы контроллера установить сл. показания AFR при 0,10 вольт ставить 7,35 AFR и 3,5 вольт 22.05 AFR
Нужно ли перепаивать ECU, чтобы не было проблем с настройкой чтобы ECU видел до 5 вольт или оставить все как есть и это не будет криминально при настройках?
Еще вопрос про калибровку LC-1
Free Air Calibration:
A free air calibration should be done on a somewhat regular basis or if the readings get wacky (like going full lean to
full rich... or just all over the place). There are two ways that I know to do a free air calibration without removing the
sensor. One, is to let the car sit for several hours, then turn the key to Acc. (not run), wait for the heater to heat the
sensor (LED goes solid) and then push the button. The other, is what I call, the Rolling Free Air Calibration (read this
somewhere... not my original idea... I just gave it a name). Find a nice hill that you can coast down. Get up some
speed, leave it in gear and turn the key back to Accessory (so the ignition is off, but the cig. lighter still has power).
Now floor it! This allows fresh air to pump through the motor and out the exhaust, and because the key is not in run,
the injectors are off. After about 10 seconds, push the button. After the LED goes back to solid, let off the gas, and turn
the key back to run, and the motor should be running, and you have a fresh calibration! If you can see your screen,
make note of what voltage the full lean voltage value is after the calibration and before you turn the key back on. If it is
different than 3.500 volts (mine was 3.48) then go back in the settings and make this the full lean voltage value. About
the best way to find the full rich value, is douse the removed sensor with a little gas.
Тоже интерестно, пишут, что для выявления параметров никакой смеси 0 нужно на заглушенном двигателе катиться под горку
)), а для очень богатой окунать в бензин )) я правильно понял мысль автора???
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