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Oppossum писал(а):Сам задавался вопросом... кто что говорит...
Надо искать в документации сервисной,
Вроде ЕТ55, но в PDF-ах сам не видел...

А 225/45-18 имхо не сток размерность.
У меня 224/45-17, надо профиль уменьшать на 18-ти.
Кстати у меня сейчас ЕТ48 с указанной резиной, не шоркает,
рулится, но борта грязью закидывает за 100м пути.

The below information was selectively gathered (with some enhancements and modifications) from another resource publicly available on the Internet. If the viewer of this content recognizes it (in its parts or entirety) as of his/her authoring, please PM me to add your credits to this post.

OEM Specs:
Tires: 215/50-17
Wheels: 17x7, +55mm offset, 5x114.3mm (5x4.5") bolt pattern, 64.1mm centerbore
Wheel bolt torque: 11 kg-m or 79.6 lb-ft (although 80 lb-ft should be ok)
Rim weight (2004-05): 23 lbs.
Rim weight (2006-07): 21 lbs.
Tire: Michelin Pilot MXM4: apprx. 22 lbs


Wheel Size:
Owners have been able to mount anything from 16" up to 20" on the TSX. So long as the outside diameter of the tire doesn't change, you will be fine with any size in that range. Wheel widths can range from 6.5" for winter tires up to 8" for summer. Some people have fitted larger wheel widths but selecting a tire and offset that fits is difficult. Members are encouraged to post the particulars of their setup if it they have a solution that works.

Offset:
Higher offset means the wheel sits deeper inside the wheel well. Lower offset means it is pushed out towards the outside of the car.
In general terms, the higher the offset, the better. The TSX seems to have all kinds of space on the inside of the wheel well.
The only problem with high offset wheels is trying to find them. Few manufacturers make an offset > 50mm.
Ideally, keep the offset higher than 42mm and you'll be ok. Several members are running 8" wide wheels with 235mm wide tires at 42mm offset and don't have any trouble with rubbing, even when lowered.


the above values were obtained from the Miata Tire Calculatorhttp://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html


Anything bigger than a +/-2% difference is considered a mismatch and should be avoided if possible. Speedometer, odometer, and VSA/ABS systems can be affected by mismatchedtire sizes.

Generally speaking, when you reduce the tire's sidewall to compensate for a larger wheel, the ride quality will diminish.

The less rubber there is between the wheel and the road, the more stress is being applied to the wheel itself. Watch out for pot holes if you reduce the sidewall of your tire. A forged rim is generally going to be stronger and resist bending better than a cast wheel.

Centerbore:
The centerbore of a wheel is the size of the machined hole on the back of the wheel that centers the wheel properly on the hub of the car. This hole is machined to exactly match the hub so the wheels are precisely positioned, minimizing the chance of a vibration. With a hubcentric wheel, the lug hardware will not be supporting the weight of the vehicle, all they really do is pressthe wheel against the hub of the car. Some wheels use high quality, forged centering rings that lock into place in the back of the wheel. This is an acceptable alternative.

If you have non-hubcentric (lugcentric) wheels, they should be torqued correctly while the vehicle is still off of the ground so they center properly. The weight of the vehicle can pushthe wheel off-center slightly while you're tightening them down if left on the ground.

The centerbore on the OEM TSX wheel is 64.1mm. Many reputable wheel/tire shops will cary an assortment of hub rings to fill the gap between the centerbore of the aftermarket wheel and the OEM hub. A set of hub rings will cost about $20 and IMO that's money well spent. An out of center wheel will behave much like an unbalanced wheel (it actually is unbalanced because it's rotating around an off-center axis).

Bardissimo писал(а):Это по CL9 TSX, oно ???

The below information was selectively gathered (with some enhancements and modifications) from another resource publicly available on the Internet. If the viewer of this content recognizes it (in its parts or entirety) as of his/her authoring, please PM me to add your credits to this post.

OEM Specs:
Tires: 215/50-17
Wheels: 17x7, +55mm offset, 5x114.3mm (5x4.5") bolt pattern, 64.1mm centerbore
Wheel bolt torque: 11 kg-m or 79.6 lb-ft (although 80 lb-ft should be ok)
Rim weight (2004-05): 23 lbs.
Rim weight (2006-07): 21 lbs.
Tire: Michelin Pilot MXM4: apprx. 22 lbs


Wheel Size:
Owners have been able to mount anything from 16" up to 20" on the TSX. So long as the outside diameter of the tire doesn't change, you will be fine with any size in that range. Wheel widths can range from 6.5" for winter tires up to 8" for summer. Some people have fitted larger wheel widths but selecting a tire and offset that fits is difficult. Members are encouraged to post the particulars of their setup if it they have a solution that works.

Offset:
Higher offset means the wheel sits deeper inside the wheel well. Lower offset means it is pushed out towards the outside of the car.
In general terms, the higher the offset, the better. The TSX seems to have all kinds of space on the inside of the wheel well.
The only problem with high offset wheels is trying to find them. Few manufacturers make an offset > 50mm.
Ideally, keep the offset higher than 42mm and you'll be ok. Several members are running 8" wide wheels with 235mm wide tires at 42mm offset and don't have any trouble with rubbing, even when lowered.


the above values were obtained from the Miata Tire Calculatorhttp://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html


Anything bigger than a +/-2% difference is considered a mismatch and should be avoided if possible. Speedometer, odometer, and VSA/ABS systems can be affected by mismatchedtire sizes.

Generally speaking, when you reduce the tire's sidewall to compensate for a larger wheel, the ride quality will diminish.

The less rubber there is between the wheel and the road, the more stress is being applied to the wheel itself. Watch out for pot holes if you reduce the sidewall of your tire. A forged rim is generally going to be stronger and resist bending better than a cast wheel.

Centerbore:
The centerbore of a wheel is the size of the machined hole on the back of the wheel that centers the wheel properly on the hub of the car. This hole is machined to exactly match the hub so the wheels are precisely positioned, minimizing the chance of a vibration. With a hubcentric wheel, the lug hardware will not be supporting the weight of the vehicle, all they really do is pressthe wheel against the hub of the car. Some wheels use high quality, forged centering rings that lock into place in the back of the wheel. This is an acceptable alternative.

If you have non-hubcentric (lugcentric) wheels, they should be torqued correctly while the vehicle is still off of the ground so they center properly. The weight of the vehicle can pushthe wheel off-center slightly while you're tightening them down if left on the ground.

The centerbore on the OEM TSX wheel is 64.1mm. Many reputable wheel/tire shops will cary an assortment of hub rings to fill the gap between the centerbore of the aftermarket wheel and the OEM hub. A set of hub rings will cost about $20 and IMO that's money well spent. An out of center wheel will behave much like an unbalanced wheel (it actually is unbalanced because it's rotating around an off-center axis).

бишеп писал(а):Ну т.е. на TSX 225 45 18 это прям тютелька в тютельку тоесть больше 45 не поставишь ну например 46там 47 48 50? а 44 43 42 40 то это уже ширина ужи?

Offset:
Higher offset means the wheel sits deeper inside the wheel well. Lower offset means it is pushed out towards the outside of the car.
In general terms, the higher the offset, the better. The TSX seems to have all kinds of space on the inside of the wheel well.
The only problem with high offset wheels is trying to find them. Few manufacturers make an offset > 50mm.
Ideally, keep the offset higher than 42mm and you'll be ok. Several members are running 8" wide wheels with 235mm wide tires at 42mm offset and don't have any trouble with rubbing, even when lowered.

Федя писал(а):У меня стоят 225/40/18, пружины TEIN Gold -1.1дюйма, диски Motegi 18*10J вылет 45. Ничего не трет, рулится,все ок.

Bardissimo писал(а):

бишеп писал(а):Ну т.е. на TSX 225 45 18 это прям тютелька в тютельку тоесть больше 45 не поставишь ну например 46там 47 48 50? а 44 43 42 40 то это уже ширина ужи?

Ты сейчас про что ? Про вылет диска или его высоту ? 225 45 18 это размер покрышки 225 ширина 45 хитрое соотношение ширины к чему-то ещё в результате чего получается высота, а 18 это радиус, это что касается размера покрышки.
Что касается вылета читай сюда:

Offset:
Higher offset means the wheel sits deeper inside the wheel well. Lower offset means it is pushed out towards the outside of the car.
In general terms, the higher the offset, the better. The TSX seems to have all kinds of space on the inside of the wheel well.
The only problem with high offset wheels is trying to find them. Few manufacturers make an offset > 50mm.
Ideally, keep the offset higher than 42mm and you'll be ok. Several members are running 8" wide wheels with 235mm wide tires at 42mm offset and don't have any trouble with rubbing, even when lowered.

Также имей в виду что есть ещё такой параметр как ширина диска, от ширины зависит какой вылет использовать.

Что касается разлета по процентам +-2%, то он касается только и исключительно размера покрышки, вылет это отдельная головная боль.
http://www.best-tyres.ru/tyres/calculat ... cradius[]=

Bardissimo писал(а):Жесть это что стилусом переводили? Ты скажи чего ты хочешь, от этого и будем плясать.

Bardissimo писал(а):в смысле вылет? Чтоб из арки торчало или что ?

GhettoKid писал(а):У меня на аккорде цл9 стоят диски ет44 7.5 р17 225/45 р17 с занижением 5см и тейнами тайп флекс и все в лучшем виде!