[temper]

нужна ли при покупке новой машины? когда менять масло? вопрос народу кто покупал новые еп3 и фн2 как поступали то?

[artemy]

насколько знаю, там до 3х-3,5 рпм первую тысячу

[Roman]

да ее до тебя прикатали пока от автовоза до стоянки перегоняли и так далее а вообещ первую тыщу не жги

[RentoN]

а лучше первые 2..

[temper]

т.е. получается неверным утверждеение как ты мотор под себя обкатаешь так и ездить будет? например несколько тазов. на одном я ездил как пенсионер - он так и ездит, нет прихода по сути никакой. на втором сразу тапко в пол, валит шо пепец!

[Jussi]

у Хонды дилеры рекомендуют обкатывать 1-2тыс км трансмиссию...
с мотором нет заморочек...

[Фил]

300 км до втека, до 500 км до 6,5 с 1000 можно валить ! На 1000-1500 масло менять!

[Фил]

С 500 до 6.5

[Санёк]

На фн2 официальный фк моторс рекомендовал 4000-4500 до 1000км
Сказать честно на фн2 это сложно)))) Но до втека 1000 отъездить реально можно за очень короткий срок.

[.Серый.]

На фн2 официальный фк моторс рекомендовал 4000-4500 до 1000км
Сказать честно на фн2 это сложно)))) Но до втека 1000 отъездить реально можно за очень короткий срок.

..как это до втека?

[Санёк]

То есть когда двигатель работает в режиме низких оборотов

[Systematick]

обкатывал мотор до втека около 800 км, поменял масло и в путь.

[харамамбару]

автор а ты тегру двинул уже?

[Бигимотик]

ну официальную точку зрения все сказали....

а если в общем....в первую штуку надо немного двигатель прикатать с коробкой.....сцепу прикатать, тормозные колодки притереть, поэтому и не рекомендуют машину рвать. можно пару раз фтэгом побаловаться, но без фанатизма и только при уже рабочей температуре.
а вот с тормозами аккуратнее, первую тыщу ни тормоза, ни резина не тормозят.
сложно...сложно.....но говорят нада... =)



если знаешь английский - почитай, тут как раз про нетрадиционную обкатку.
Background
This is all about piston rings and bores. In an engine the compressed gas must not escape the combustion chamber down into the innards of the engine (causing loss of power) and the oil must not escape at too great a rate into the combustion chamber (causing loss of oil). The seals that stop this are springy rings that go around the piston, that are forced by the pressure of the gasses in the combustion chamber to squeeze against the inside of the bore. They never actually touch the bore - there is a microscopic film of oil between the ring and the bore, held in some tiny little grooves that cover all of the bore.

The quality of this seal is critical to the performance of the car, and this seal is "completed" during the running in period.

Running in theory
When the little groves are put in the bore by the manufacturer, they are not perfect. Modern grooves are pretty good - they already have a little plateau on the peaks - but the rings still have to wear them in a bit to the perfect shape of the rings in that bore. Oddly, the best way to do this is to get the parts in the correct shape and size by warming the engine right up and then loading the rings up with plenty of pressure so they are evenly forced against the bore, causing them to evenly rub down the grooves to a perfect fit all round. If only a light pressure is applied (for a long time), then the rings will tend to press a little bit in some places, leaving other places not worn correctly. This can remove the little groves in some places leaving a smooth finish (glazing the bores), causing a poor seal for life.

Running in in practice
So how do you do the above, in real life? Easy. Warm the engine up gently, then go for a normal drive accelerating hard (but not necessarily up to very high revs) and then let the car slow down with the engine winding down. If you can do this by going for a fun 100 mile drive as your first drive, then you've really cracked it. The car will sound rough and "tight" (ie no power because the seal is poor) for the first few miles, but as the seals get better then the car will feel better.

In a turbo car this is really easy, because you don't have to rev it high. Just make sure that on each acceleration run you get a good woosh of power - this is the turbo working and the pressure of the gas in the combustion chamber will be high.

Running in advice for normal people (!)
Never work the engine hard until it's warmed up.

Do not drive on the motorway for the first 200 miles. Drive on A roads, over take cars as normal and have fun.

Drive on A roads if possible for the first 600 miles. Check the oil!

Myths
Honda engines are not run in "on the bench" or in the factory. As part of the manufacturing quality control system, a small sample are taken off the line and tested thoroughly to ensure the manufacturing process is working.

An old text from 1981
This is from a book from the most respected author on building racing engines. It was written in 1981 and is aimed at building small normally aspirated petrol engines. It is interesting that it promotes almost the exact same method as the mototune site. Remember that this is written for a dyno, so accelerating from low revs in top gear on the road will produce much more load than if on a dyno, so is not recommended. The mototune method for breaking the rings in on the road is much preferred!

The initial bed in of rings is achieved by giving the car a full throttle burst for a few seconds, followed by snapping the throttle shut and coasting for a few more seconds. This should be repeated at least twelve to fifteen times with the engine at normal operating temperature. Accelerate the vehicle in top gear from the slowest speed it will pull in that gear.

By giving the engine full power, the high gas pressures force the rings out against the bore wall. Snapping the throttle shut causes a vacuum in the cylinder which draws up extra oil. This and low engine speed minimises the risk of glazing and allows the ring face and cylinder wall to cool.

After the rings are initially bed-in, the engine can be operated at up to 80% of its rev/power potential, but constantly vary the speed. If this is not done, the rings may still glaze. After about half an hour of this on the dyno or the race circuit, the rings can be considered as being run-in. A road engine with chrome rings should be run in for around 200 miles, preferably in one session. Again, constantly vary the engine speed and include heavy acceleration for short bursts as for initial bedding in. Avoid constant high speed until the engine has done 500 - 700 miles.

I prefer to break in my engines on the dyno, carefully controlling the engine speed and load to ensure long engine life and maximum power. This takes 2-3 hours for most brands of engines. When the engine cools, the tappets are adjusted and the head is retensioned. Then, following a warm-up to bring the water and oil up to temperature,, full load power tests are made to determine ignition advance, fuel jet sizes etc. By the end of the tests the engine is fully run-in, having spent at least four hours running on the dyno.

пы.сы. очень всё хорошо и понятно....но что-то на своей всё-равно стремно так. =)

[Sokol_Vti]

мотор должен обкатываться во всех рабочих диапазонах, но без фанатизма.

[Bunu]

резину тыщу КМ обкатывать *) ыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыыы