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Замена боковой подушки на Recaro SR3 (speed)
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A common problem with Honda's Integra and Civic Type R models is that the Recaro seat bolsters start to lose their shape due to the driver and passenger sitting on them while getting in and out of the vehicle.

As well as looking tatty, a collapsed bolster doesn't grip the occupant as well which can be felt during high-speed cornering or circuit driving.

Luckily it's possible to carry out a DIY replacement of the bolster foam with a few tools and about half a day's time. This guide, based on my EK9 Civic Type R, will show you how, with plenty of photos and tips along the way!

Before you start, you'll need the following:
Replacement bolster foam - available from Capital Seating
10mm & 12mm sockets and spanners
Small needle nose pliers
Small hammer
Cross-head and flat-head screwdrivers

Start by folding the seat forward so you can access the rear bolts securing the seat.
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The inward bolt is covered by a small plastic cover. Carefully but firmly prise it upwards using a flat blade screwdriver.
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Use a 12mm socket to remove the bolts.
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Note the inboard bolt is thicker and was secured with thread lock. It’s the only one of the 4 like this.

Slide the seat back to reveal the front bolts. Remove them with the 12mm socket.

With the seat unbolted, tilt it inwards towards the centre of the car to reveal the seatbelt warning light connector underneath. Push the indicated part of the vehicle end connector to disconnect it, and push through the retaining clip by pinching the top with pliers to squeeze it sufficiently.

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With the seat still folded forward, carefully lift the seat from the car, starting with the base and checking the sill doesn’t get scratched. The top of the headrest will just squeeze out.

Here you can see the bolster in it’s current state, not the worst but it could do with replacement.
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Assuming the right-hand bolster of the driver’s seat is being replaced, the next step is to lay the seat on it’s left-hand side to reveal 3 10mm bolts securing the sliding mechanism to the right-hand side seat base.
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You will also need to disconnect the wire that connects the 2 sliders once the slider mechanism is unbolted and free from the seat itself.

The right-hand side slider can now be placed to one side.
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Next, remove the cover of the recliner mechanism. This is held in place by 3 plastic pegs. 2 can be pushed out from underneath easily with a screwdriver or needle nose pliers, but the third one is very difficult to get at. It is possible however, I managed to get at it from the bottom (right-hand side in the photo), so just take your time and you’ll avoid breaking the cover.
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Once the cover is removed, you’ll need to remove the large cross-head screw on the recliner catch and also the circlip securing the hinge.
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Now the right-hand side seat base can be separated from the seat back by lifting the recliner plate over the peg previously secured by the circlip. At first there didn’t seem to be enough flex to do this, but it pops off after a minute or 2 of experimentation! Also remove the plastic plate held by the cross-head screw.
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Turning your attention to the seat base, remove the 5 wire hooks from the edge of the seat. I found it relatively easy to do this by pulling the base sheet towards the seat edge while using a flat blade screwdriver to pry the hooks out. The middle one is a little tricky as it’s harder to create the slack.

PLEASE NOTE: It may not be necessary to carry out this step, although it certainly creates more working space for the next step. However, if you can do without removing the hooks, that’s great because they are VERY difficult to get back in place!!!
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The actual bolster cover is held in place by a wire running through a stitched ‘hem’ and anchored in place by 5 metal tabs on the seat base frame. To separate them, first pry the metal tabs apart slightly to create the gap for the wire, and then by pulling down on the bolster fabric to create slack, slide the wire out from under the tabs. This was probably the most difficult part of the job so far, and you’ll find the rear-most one very difficult to remove as the recliner hinge and catch prevent the bolster fabric moving enough to create slack, so we’ll address that next.
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(Note that the wire is already free from the rear clip in the next few pictures, just because I’d worked out how to remove it and then went back to take the photos) Running across the rear of the seat base is the plastic trim which secures the seat base fabric to the frame. Pull it up and away from the frame as shown.
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This will expose the edges of the alcantara covering the bolster. It’s stuck to the frame but can be peeled off quite easily.

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Work round to the rear of the seat base and continue unpeeling. This should create enough slack in the alcantara at this end to remove the last section of wire from the clip on the seat frame.
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Repeat this on the front of the seat base, and you will then be able to fold the bolster fabric up and over the foam so that it can be removed.
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Here’s a shot of the old foam showing the disintegration starting to take place.
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Fit the new bolster in place, it will probably be a tighter fit but should go in quite easily.
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Next pull the alcantara back over the new bolster. This took about 10 minutes of pulling, pushing and cursing but it is the aim of this exercise after all! Make sure the seam is in the same place as on the other bolster, and that the front edge is pulled down enough – you can use the marks where the alcantara was glued to the seat frame to gauge when it’s in position. I didn’t bother re-gluing the flaps of material as they seemed to be held in position pretty well by the seat base trim.

Use needle nose pliers to replace the wire in the bolster hem under the metal clips. Before you start, make sure the wire is central in the hem, as it may well have moved when you were wrestling with the material in the previous step. I started with the rear clips and worked forward. If you end up with the hem positioned so it’s over one of the clips (you can see this in the clip second from the right in the photo below), I found it easier to grab the wire with the pliers immediately to the right of the hem and by pulling down and to the left, created enough space to re-insert the wire properly.

If you removed the 5 hooks from the seat base, now re-attach them. It may be easier to have an assistant pull up the rubber material to help create slack, but in any case this is a difficult job - avoid removing these hooks if possible!
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Final steps are to replace the seat rail (I loosely replaced the rear bolt first to allow the rail to pivot down, making re-fitting the wire easier), and re-fitting the hinge and hinge cover.

The result of all this work is shown here:
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Finally replace the seat in the car, not forgetting to re-connect the seat belt switch before starting on the bolts!

Initial impressions are that this is extremely worthwhile from an appearance and function point of view. Apart from a few crease marks on the bolster where it had deformed, it obviously looks far better, and the increased grip from the seat is really noticeable.

Весь мануал по замене можно скачать в виде pdf файла http://alexbentley.co.uk/library/pdf/recaro-repair-guide.pdf


Стоимость боковины примерно 2800 р.
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Себе уже заказал, буду менять.
Так же у кого порвалась боковинка , можно заказать новую
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Copyright © 2009 Alex Bentley (http://alexbentley.co.uk/car/recaro/recaro-intro.php)


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СообщениеДобавлено: 01 апр 2010, 18:40
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а средняя ткань на сидушку есть? ее поменять можно? где заказывать?



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crispkiller писал(а):
а средняя ткань на сидушку есть? ее поменять можно? где заказывать?


нигде эту ткань не нашел, самому нужна. списывался с англичанами - у них нету.


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http://www.capitalseating.co.uk/product ... id=&rid=63
для черных есть) про запас чтоль взять)
Avus is soft fabric used on early models of the RECARO N-Joy and SR seats.


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