-
- жОлтый
- Сообщения: 13482
- Зарегистрирован: 21 мар 2008, Пт 3:56
- Машина: EVO
- Откуда: Москва
- Контактная информация:
нет, у меня сканк2c794ec93 писал(а):так это получается сток рычаги местами меняешь и вуаля кастор на 2 градуса?londone писал(а):у меня тоже кастер 2 градуса , рычаги стоят наоборот
EK K24
STi Coupe WRC S6
EVO V
EVO IX Wagon MR GT
DC1 B20 Tracktool
ВАЗ 2102 ‘83 Export
STi Coupe WRC S6
EVO V
EVO IX Wagon MR GT
DC1 B20 Tracktool
ВАЗ 2102 ‘83 Export
- c794ec93
- Сообщения: 1552
- Зарегистрирован: 10 фев 2008, Вс 22:28
- Откуда: краснодар
- Контактная информация:
londone писал(а):нет, у меня сканк2c794ec93 писал(а):так это получается сток рычаги местами меняешь и вуаля кастор на 2 градуса?londone писал(а):у меня тоже кастер 2 градуса , рычаги стоят наоборот
а с обычными такой фокус возможен?
возможен на ЕГ и ДС точно
EG B18C6
- crispkiller
- Сообщения: 986
- Зарегистрирован: 11 окт 2006, Ср 8:03
- Откуда: г. Москва
- Контактная информация:
Сань, как дела?
Integra TypeR DC2...I ♥ My Honda
АДМ Мячково 1.58.270
АДМ Мячково 1.58.270
вчера я видел копались до ночи, и не заводили
Ремонт и ТО Honda
я на нем ездил вчера)))
ацки, но я не валил, а вьезжал выезжал из бокса, ибо отсутствие выпуска, сказывается на отношениях с соседями.johnnybo писал(а):валед?RRR писал(а):я на нем ездил вчера)))
- crispkiller
- Сообщения: 986
- Зарегистрирован: 11 окт 2006, Ср 8:03
- Откуда: г. Москва
- Контактная информация:
поздравляю
Integra TypeR DC2...I ♥ My Honda
АДМ Мячково 1.58.270
АДМ Мячково 1.58.270
- mer
- Сообщения: 1899
- Зарегистрирован: 15 дек 2005, Чт 14:07
- Машина: IIIIIIVCi
- Откуда: мосыкхе
- Контактная информация:
велосипеды на турбовку приносят?!!RRR писал(а):ацки, но я не валил, а вьезжал выезжал из бокса, ибо отсутствие выпуска, сказывается на отношениях с соседями.johnnybo писал(а):валед?RRR писал(а):я на нем ездил вчера)))
- Subchik
- Сообщения: 1776
- Зарегистрирован: 26 май 2006, Пт 13:15
- Откуда: Москоу-сити, Площадь Победы
- Контактная информация:
Наконец, и у моего ведра произошли некоторые изменения
Старый пост про подвеску и возникшие геморы перепощу с k20a.org, если будет время переведу. А пока и так понятно большинству будет. Можно посмотреть на всякий колхоз и прочее.
It's time for updates. Unfortunately, I've lost this season, it's over but my car is not ready yet. I have lots of problems but... what we've done:
When I bought a Toda-replica header I thought it will fit. But as I have HR ver.2 mounts it does not.
I immediateli started searching for some manual rack but in Russia it's so difficult to find one. In one month I've found it in Belarus for $150. Ordered Hardrace inner tie rod and oem rod ends. In the same parcel there were some Hardrace spherical arms and rear traling arm bushings. I opted with them instead of the PCI ball-bearings because in longitudinal direction play does not make much difference instead of lateral (camber, toe). And they are much cheaper.
Didn't know that the bushings vary on manual and ps rack. Had to "custom" made them...
I cleaned a car under the fenders a bit and fitted the goodridge hoses.
On this photo you can see some body repair that have been done previously. It was a surprise for me, I didn't see anything until I cleaned there a bit. Don't know how the previous owner managed to hit this area.
The right axle from an rsx was so damaged that I can't even turn a nut on it so it has to be replaced (the outer part of it). Shitty pre-used parts.... they costed $300.
As I found out that my header does not fit I sold it in two weeks and ordered a Hytech replica that should fit.
Waited another 3 weeks. Thanks God it fitted well but very close to the subframe. The engine is moved closer to the firewall. First time wrapped the header with the heat-resistant tape... not very good but fine enough.
Goodbye Toda-rep
Engine bay for that moment
"Nice" hole for the cables
Thanks to Brian at Karcepts (very fast shipping - only 11 days) and I got my rad brackets, new gsr throttle cable and bracket.
I thought that I don't need any swap harness as our best electricians can make the car run in a flash. But here words and business differ. And if you are not able to do smth by yourself, reliable, you just have to trust, keep your pocket full and pray... There are very few people who can confess that they are not able to do smth.
Meanwhile mechanic who helps me with my car occasionally (my shortcoming is that I'm not a mechanic personally, I'm a driver and I can't do myself many things) started making the harness. It took about two weeks. One sensor, another, wrong sensor, one more sensor etc. There were some problems with pinouts too. The main relay didn't work. Some fuel fittings lacked (don't know how becuse I ordered them especially for my setup, but..). 2-3 weeks to wait for the new ones - no. Fitted the fuel rack without FPR and with direct feed for the fuel pump it worked good and revved up and down correctly. I took the car to the Moscow swap guru Rinat cause he knows better the harness, he had fittings and other parts that are difficult to find in Moscow so I thought it would be easier for me and will take less time. In one and a half week approximately I take the car back. I had to borrow some ECU with Hondata because they told me that my PRC is broken. Ok but it didn't idle good. In k-manager we saw that on full throttle it showed 60%. Very difficult to find some tps in Moscow but Rinat helped me with that - I took an Omni one for $130. I had wrong knock sensor and took a new one plus intake temp sensor ($100). Now the car starts and revs up rather good. But there were no vacuum fitting on my RBC and I don't know where to find it and how to route correctly the vacuum hoses - I've seen different setups.
My rad support should be rewelded as it is too high and the hood hits the cap a bit and I need to place a shifter correctly. I don't have any exhaust yet so it's quite a loud car now)
This is the bay after wiring progress.
Dirty and messy but it's very difficult to keep it clean as your projects as I don't even have my own garage. So we have what we have. I hope one day I will manage to make everything myself, clean and reliable in my own place.
The problem I have now is some strange white smoke going from the intake after I stop the engine. It does not smell anything and I don't know if it's bad or what
As for the suspension there is another long story.
After 6 months of expectation I received my new bodies for the Tein shock absorbers. They were manufactured on Sukhoi factory in Komsomolsk-On-Amur which is located 6000 km to the east of Moscow. They made them 2 times, the first outcome was not good. They made an exact "sliding coefficient" as the originals (don't know how to translate it better to English), also gave some special coating. Many people took part in this process and on every stage there was some waiting list and my parts of course were not at the beginning of this list. The price is $115 for each body.
Assembled it with my Tein RS bought from a guy in Khabarovsk who also helped with body production - he has made over 6 runs to Komsomolsk (400 km each) to motivate workmen, he also spent some cash to speed up the process. Thanks to him they finally made them.
Front shocks were rebuilt at the official Tein dealer URT, we assembled some dust covers, got new oil, cleaned up everything and replaced all the seals and one piston. $400 for all. The rears were not reassembled as they showed good numbers on a tester.
Shocks before:
You can understand what was the trouble:
The new ones before the finishing coating:
My ITR arms got ready from a guy who inserted some ball-bearings and were ready to sit in place. But there were some troubles with the upper control arms. Smth got wrong and I had to wait for them to get rewelded. Last weekend I received them along with the ITR arms which were also powdercoated.
Front upper arms look heavy but they are 1.5x lighter than stock. But as I saw them I doubt that they will fit. The support bracket is too big. It is made of 3mm steel. When we test fitted it it didn't want to sit in place and guys who were making an assembly thought they will fit them anyway and.. I got some new holes in my car. Not a big deal i hope but.. frustrating a bit.
Next day the guy who made them took a look on the car and remade the bracket. It is smaller and thinner (2mm steel for now). In production now and I hope they will fit. On the pictures you see some allen-head bolts but I swapped them with bigger classic bolts and put some washers to prevent what people have with skunk-style arms.
But that is not all guys. I also got some other surprises.
The rear suspension fitted without any problem. We only took off gas tank tube cover to prevent hitting it with the external reservoir.
Trailing arms with some new Hardrace bushings, ITR lower arms, Hardrace spherical toe-kit, camber kit and park brake cables from a dc2 itr all fitted with no problem at all. I only wonder why Hardrace spherical camber kit comes with dust covers and the toe-kit does not? Anyway, the rear lower arms from an itr dc2 extended the track width by approximately 5mm on each side which I didn't really know. 195/50R15 tires on 7 inch 38mm offset wheels now rubbing a bit but I don't care as my rear fenders ask to get them to a junkyard.
And this is what we have in front:
Teins in their place, J's roll center adjusters, itr swaybar but... the hole for a fork is 10mm but it should be 12mm. The guy made a mistake in measurements but I didn't notice( But what is worse and nobody noticed - the right lower arms is f***ed!! It was taken from some JDM car in England so the car should have been hit in this area but I don't know how hard should it be hit to make this arm so bad.. This is the result, the wheel stands 20mm back:
Tein springs showed some fatigue - with the same settings car shows ~20mm difference in height between left and right wheel. Maybe I should simply adjust them better, maybe order some new ones.
Well these things got me really frustrating... Swapped back the front arms along with the swaybar, didn't even notice than we can just reassemble the front arms and there is no need to take off the swaybar but nevermind. Searching for another arm to swap the bearings and for new version of upper arms. I also don't have any exhaust at the moment so the car is not very driveable so it's going to sleep another winter. If I stay on this project I should weld in a roll cage, get some bucket seats, harness, steering wheel, make it clean and give it some new fenders and a fresh coat of paint.
For now I will try to find a good, comfortable place for the car so I can take more care of her and make her better.
Старый пост про подвеску и возникшие геморы перепощу с k20a.org, если будет время переведу. А пока и так понятно большинству будет. Можно посмотреть на всякий колхоз и прочее.
It's time for updates. Unfortunately, I've lost this season, it's over but my car is not ready yet. I have lots of problems but... what we've done:
When I bought a Toda-replica header I thought it will fit. But as I have HR ver.2 mounts it does not.
I immediateli started searching for some manual rack but in Russia it's so difficult to find one. In one month I've found it in Belarus for $150. Ordered Hardrace inner tie rod and oem rod ends. In the same parcel there were some Hardrace spherical arms and rear traling arm bushings. I opted with them instead of the PCI ball-bearings because in longitudinal direction play does not make much difference instead of lateral (camber, toe). And they are much cheaper.
Didn't know that the bushings vary on manual and ps rack. Had to "custom" made them...
I cleaned a car under the fenders a bit and fitted the goodridge hoses.
On this photo you can see some body repair that have been done previously. It was a surprise for me, I didn't see anything until I cleaned there a bit. Don't know how the previous owner managed to hit this area.
The right axle from an rsx was so damaged that I can't even turn a nut on it so it has to be replaced (the outer part of it). Shitty pre-used parts.... they costed $300.
As I found out that my header does not fit I sold it in two weeks and ordered a Hytech replica that should fit.
Waited another 3 weeks. Thanks God it fitted well but very close to the subframe. The engine is moved closer to the firewall. First time wrapped the header with the heat-resistant tape... not very good but fine enough.
Goodbye Toda-rep
Engine bay for that moment
"Nice" hole for the cables
Thanks to Brian at Karcepts (very fast shipping - only 11 days) and I got my rad brackets, new gsr throttle cable and bracket.
I thought that I don't need any swap harness as our best electricians can make the car run in a flash. But here words and business differ. And if you are not able to do smth by yourself, reliable, you just have to trust, keep your pocket full and pray... There are very few people who can confess that they are not able to do smth.
Meanwhile mechanic who helps me with my car occasionally (my shortcoming is that I'm not a mechanic personally, I'm a driver and I can't do myself many things) started making the harness. It took about two weeks. One sensor, another, wrong sensor, one more sensor etc. There were some problems with pinouts too. The main relay didn't work. Some fuel fittings lacked (don't know how becuse I ordered them especially for my setup, but..). 2-3 weeks to wait for the new ones - no. Fitted the fuel rack without FPR and with direct feed for the fuel pump it worked good and revved up and down correctly. I took the car to the Moscow swap guru Rinat cause he knows better the harness, he had fittings and other parts that are difficult to find in Moscow so I thought it would be easier for me and will take less time. In one and a half week approximately I take the car back. I had to borrow some ECU with Hondata because they told me that my PRC is broken. Ok but it didn't idle good. In k-manager we saw that on full throttle it showed 60%. Very difficult to find some tps in Moscow but Rinat helped me with that - I took an Omni one for $130. I had wrong knock sensor and took a new one plus intake temp sensor ($100). Now the car starts and revs up rather good. But there were no vacuum fitting on my RBC and I don't know where to find it and how to route correctly the vacuum hoses - I've seen different setups.
My rad support should be rewelded as it is too high and the hood hits the cap a bit and I need to place a shifter correctly. I don't have any exhaust yet so it's quite a loud car now)
This is the bay after wiring progress.
Dirty and messy but it's very difficult to keep it clean as your projects as I don't even have my own garage. So we have what we have. I hope one day I will manage to make everything myself, clean and reliable in my own place.
The problem I have now is some strange white smoke going from the intake after I stop the engine. It does not smell anything and I don't know if it's bad or what
As for the suspension there is another long story.
After 6 months of expectation I received my new bodies for the Tein shock absorbers. They were manufactured on Sukhoi factory in Komsomolsk-On-Amur which is located 6000 km to the east of Moscow. They made them 2 times, the first outcome was not good. They made an exact "sliding coefficient" as the originals (don't know how to translate it better to English), also gave some special coating. Many people took part in this process and on every stage there was some waiting list and my parts of course were not at the beginning of this list. The price is $115 for each body.
Assembled it with my Tein RS bought from a guy in Khabarovsk who also helped with body production - he has made over 6 runs to Komsomolsk (400 km each) to motivate workmen, he also spent some cash to speed up the process. Thanks to him they finally made them.
Front shocks were rebuilt at the official Tein dealer URT, we assembled some dust covers, got new oil, cleaned up everything and replaced all the seals and one piston. $400 for all. The rears were not reassembled as they showed good numbers on a tester.
Shocks before:
You can understand what was the trouble:
The new ones before the finishing coating:
My ITR arms got ready from a guy who inserted some ball-bearings and were ready to sit in place. But there were some troubles with the upper control arms. Smth got wrong and I had to wait for them to get rewelded. Last weekend I received them along with the ITR arms which were also powdercoated.
Front upper arms look heavy but they are 1.5x lighter than stock. But as I saw them I doubt that they will fit. The support bracket is too big. It is made of 3mm steel. When we test fitted it it didn't want to sit in place and guys who were making an assembly thought they will fit them anyway and.. I got some new holes in my car. Not a big deal i hope but.. frustrating a bit.
Next day the guy who made them took a look on the car and remade the bracket. It is smaller and thinner (2mm steel for now). In production now and I hope they will fit. On the pictures you see some allen-head bolts but I swapped them with bigger classic bolts and put some washers to prevent what people have with skunk-style arms.
But that is not all guys. I also got some other surprises.
The rear suspension fitted without any problem. We only took off gas tank tube cover to prevent hitting it with the external reservoir.
Trailing arms with some new Hardrace bushings, ITR lower arms, Hardrace spherical toe-kit, camber kit and park brake cables from a dc2 itr all fitted with no problem at all. I only wonder why Hardrace spherical camber kit comes with dust covers and the toe-kit does not? Anyway, the rear lower arms from an itr dc2 extended the track width by approximately 5mm on each side which I didn't really know. 195/50R15 tires on 7 inch 38mm offset wheels now rubbing a bit but I don't care as my rear fenders ask to get them to a junkyard.
And this is what we have in front:
Teins in their place, J's roll center adjusters, itr swaybar but... the hole for a fork is 10mm but it should be 12mm. The guy made a mistake in measurements but I didn't notice( But what is worse and nobody noticed - the right lower arms is f***ed!! It was taken from some JDM car in England so the car should have been hit in this area but I don't know how hard should it be hit to make this arm so bad.. This is the result, the wheel stands 20mm back:
Tein springs showed some fatigue - with the same settings car shows ~20mm difference in height between left and right wheel. Maybe I should simply adjust them better, maybe order some new ones.
Well these things got me really frustrating... Swapped back the front arms along with the swaybar, didn't even notice than we can just reassemble the front arms and there is no need to take off the swaybar but nevermind. Searching for another arm to swap the bearings and for new version of upper arms. I also don't have any exhaust at the moment so the car is not very driveable so it's going to sleep another winter. If I stay on this project I should weld in a roll cage, get some bucket seats, harness, steering wheel, make it clean and give it some new fenders and a fresh coat of paint.
For now I will try to find a good, comfortable place for the car so I can take more care of her and make her better.
Последний раз редактировалось Subchik 17 авг 2011, Ср 1:40, всего редактировалось 1 раз.
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